In your search for the perfect rose, you may have been struggling to decide between own-root and grafted. The difference comes down to genetics and how it affects performance, care, and longevity. This post will help beginner, intermediate, and experienced rose gardeners understand anatomy differences, pros & cons, climate considerations, and care nuances between the two.
Definition & Anatomy
Own-root rose: This is the variety that grows on its own roots, genetically identical from head to toe. Any new growth will be of the same variety that was originally planted. Without a bud union that could be weakened by cold weather, own-root roses tend to be hardier than grafted.
Grafted (budded) rose: If you think you can’t have vibrant color, full blooms, and disease-resistance all in one rose, think again! In a grafted rose, one variety (scion) is attached to the rootstock of another – combining their desirable traits into one vigorous breed. You’ll see the bud union/swelling near the crown just above the roots.
Side-by-Side: Key Differences
It’s important to understand the differences between own-root and grafted roses before purchasing. So we’ve created a handy chart to lay them out and help you make the right decision for your garden.
Own root vs Grafted
|
Characteristic |
Own-Root |
Grafted |
|
Vigor/establishment |
Slower establishment – taking a few years to fully mature. |
More vigorous with faster establishment. May appear larger in the first year. |
|
Cold hardiness |
Stronger in cold weather – with the ability to regrow from their roots if top growth is killed. |
Bud union is susceptible to damage by frost. |
|
Disease recovery |
Generally more disease resistant without risk of bud union damage or graft failure. |
Disease resistant with the right rootstock and proper bud union care. |
|
Longevity |
Longer lifespan – can live for decades. |
Shorter lifespan – between 8-15 years. |
|
Maintenance (suckers) |
Lower maintenance without the risk of suckers (growth shoots of a different variety). |
Require removal of suckers to prevent weakening of the plant. |
|
Planting depth |
Plant the crown about an inch below the soil. |
Bury the bud union in cold climates (1-2 inches below soil level). In warmer climates, place it slightly above the soil level. |
|
Transplant tolerance |
Lower risk of transplant shock without the risk of bud union damage. |
More susceptible to transplant shock. |
|
Availability/price |
Generally found in specialty nurseries with higher prices. |
Easier and faster to produce for mass consumption – leading to greater availability & lower prices. |
Pros & Cons: Own-Root Roses
Own-root roses are the perfect choice for gardeners who prioritize long-term resilience over time to bloom. Here’s what to consider before making the commitment.
Pros
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Genetic integrity: Any winter kill or dieback will regrow from the roots, staying true to the original variety.
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No sucker issues: Without a rootstock of a different variety, maintenance is simpler – no need for sucker removal.
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Long lifespan: While taking longer to establish, own-root roses are generally more resilient in the long run.
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Cold hardiness: Top dieback is common in very cold climates. The ability to regrow from the roots makes own-root roses a great choice for cold temperatures.
Cons
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Slow establishment/low initial vigor: Own-root roses require more patience, taking 2-3 years to fully bloom.
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Lower availability & higher price: Many own-root rose varieties are considered premium products, found only in more expensive specialty nurseries.
Pros & Cons: Grafted Roses
Holding the desirable characteristics of different varieties, grafted roses seem like the obvious choice for many gardeners. But it’s important to know the challenges that come with caring for them before making your decision.
Pros
-
Early vigor: With a strong rootstock, grafted roses have quicker top growth, often blooming within their first year.
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Greater soil adaptability: With hardier rootstocks, grafted roses can often tolerate less-than-ideal soil conditions.
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Broader availability & lower price: With a quicker time to market, grafted roses are typically less expensive with a wider range of choice.
Cons
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Sucker issues: Rootstocks produce new shoots of a different variety from below the graft – requiring ongoing removal.
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Higher risk of winter damage: The graft can be a point of weakness, especially in cold climates. If dieback occurs below the graft, the regrowth will be that of the rootstock (not the purchased variety). Therefore, it’s important to provide more winter protection for grafted roses.
Climate & Hardiness Considerations
Climatic & soil conditions are important factors in determining if own-root or grafted roses are better for your garden. Here’s what to consider based on the climate where you live:
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Cold climates: Own-root roses are hardier in cold climates, regrowing from the roots when top growth is damaged.
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Hot & dry climates: With rootstocks bred for tolerance to heat, grafted roses often thrive in these climates and can adapt better to poor soil conditions.
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Short seasons: If quicker time to bloom is your priority, grafted roses establish faster – giving you the most time to enjoy their beauty.
Learn which rose hardiness zone you live in to determine which roses will thrive in your climate and narrow down your choice even further.
Planting & Care Differences
Own-root and grafted roses have different needs and require slightly different care. Here’s what to know:
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Own-root planting depth: With no graft to bury, plant the crown at or slightly below soil level.
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Grafted planting depth: In cold climates, protect the bud union by planting it 1-2 inches below soil level. In warmer climates, place it slightly above soil level.
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Sucker management (grafted): You may start to see new shoots of growth (suckers) emerging from below the bud union. These can weaken your rose and should be removed promptly at the origin.
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Pruning & renewal: Annual thinning of both own-root and grafted roses encourage healthy growth and contribute to overall health and wellbeing. Own-root roses will often rebound from the base more reliably.
Bare-Root vs. Own-Root vs. Potted
With the various rose terminologies you might’ve seen on the internet, things can get a little hectic! Let’s take a moment to distinguish between them.
Bare-root roses are not to be confused with own-root roses. Bare-root refers to roses that are sold in dormancy without packaging or soil, ready to be planted in the ground.
Potted roses are ones sold already planted into a container. Both bare-root & potted roses can be either own-root or grafted.
Own-root roses contain only 1 variety and grow on their own roots, while grafted roses join 2 varieties together (a rootstock and scion). The rootstock is chosen for its hardiness, while the scion is often chosen for its visual appeal.
Performance Traits That Matter to Buyers
The decision to buy an own-root or grafted rose is completely personal and depends on your gardening priorities. Consider the following:
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Blooming & vigor: Grafted roses will show blooms within the first year, while own-root may take a few years.
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Disease recovery: Own-root roses will always regrow as their original variety, while grafted must rely on survival at or above the bud union.
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Longevity: Own-root roses naturally have a longer lifespan with many gardeners reporting excellent long-term results. Grafted roses can also live long lives with a strong rootstock and a little extra care.
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Transplant shock: Own-root roses can bounce back quicker if moved with care. Grafted roses may have a harder time and will need extra care to protect the bud union.
FAQs
Q: Which is better, grafted or own-root roses?
A: Neither! The choice is preference-based. To put it simply – choose own-root roses for long-term results and grafted roses for quicker gratification.
Q: What are the benefits of own-root roses?
A: Longer lifespan, cold hardiness, and genetic integrity. Any new growth is guaranteed to be of the desired variety.
Q: Are all bare-root roses grafted?
A: No – bare-root roses can be either own-root or grafted.
Q: How long do own-root roses live?
A: Hardy and resilient, own-root roses can live for decades!
Q: What is the difference between grafted and own-root roses?
A: Own-root roses grow on their own roots and only produce growth of the original variety. A grafted rose contains 2 varieties – with one being attached to the rootstock of another.
Q: What are the negatives of grafting?
A: Sucker issues requiring ongoing maintenance, higher risk of bud union damage in cold climates.
Own-Root or Grafted? The Choice is Yours
Own-root and grafted roses have their own challenges and benefits. Before choosing, think about your climate & soil conditions, maintenance capabilities, and how long you’re willing to wait to see those beautiful blooms. Visit April & Ashley to browse our selection of premium own-root and grafted roses, shipped straight from our farm to your doorstep.