Want to beautify ordinary structures, hide eyesores, or create private tranquility in your garden? Climbing and rambler roses (and even suitable shrub roses) can be trained to cling onto trellises, fences, walls, and other supports – transforming them into a tapestry of beautiful blooms. This article will teach gardeners of all levels the core training principles, as well as provide guidance on choosing the right structure, a year-by-year training plan, and ongoing maintenance for maximum bloom coverage.
Before You Start: Plant & Support Basics
Not all roses climb equally. With the right training, true climbers and ramblers are bred to scramble upward with their long, flexible canes. Some shrub roses can be tied and pillared, but won’t grow as vigorously. No matter which type of rose you choose, it should be placed with its basic needs in mind. Here’s what you should know before planting a climbing rose:
Placement & spacing
Always plant roses in a location that receives 6-8+ hours of sunlight per day, and leave 12-18 inches of space away from your support. This will encourage airflow and leave room for you to tie in the canes.
Support Installation
The type of hardware and installation method required will depend on your choice of support. Consider the following before selecting the structure on which your rose will climb:
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Trellis/arch/arbor/pergola: Securely anchor sturdy frames into the ground. Just as you would with planting a rose, dig holes, place the legs inside the holes, and backfill. Consider backfilling with concrete in areas with high winds for unwavering stability.
Tip: Metal trellises are more durable and low maintenance. If using wood, make sure it’s treated to avoid rot.
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Fence/wall: Run straining wires horizontally – placed 12 to 18 inches apart. Use stand-off anchors to create an air gap.
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Brick walls: Attach straining wires to the wall with masonry anchors. Avoid damage by drilling into the mortar joints – not the brick itself. Another popular option is mounting a trellis 2-4 inches away from the wall.
Core Training Principles
The secret to planting a tall, vigorous climbing rose lies in the training techniques. Use these tips & tricks to achieve the goals of abundant blooms, maximum coverage, sturdy framework, and overall plant health:
Angles that drive flowering: Always tie canes horizontally or on a shallow diagonal (30-45°). This will encourage lateral shoots along the length of the cane and produce blooms all throughout the rose bush rather than just at the top.
Fan the framework: Find the strongest 3-5 “main canes” and spread them out in a fan shape to cover more surface area and maximize blooms. Shorten laterals each year to maintain structural health.
Tie gently, often: Young rose canes are tender and must be treated with care. Use soft garden ties or twine that won’t cut into them. Secure long, whippy canes every 12 to 18 inches to prevent wind damage.
Airflow & access: Keep a small gap (2-4 inches) between the plant and structure to promote airflow – reducing the risk of common fungal infections. Avoid crossing canes that may prevent sunlight from reaching buds.
Year-by-Year Training Plan
Training a rose to climb isn’t an overnight process – it requires patience, care, and attention to detail. It can take up to 3 years for a climbing rose to establish. Abide by this training plan each year, and you’ll be rewarded with a vigorous, long-lasting plant.
Year 1: Establish Framework
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Identify the strongest “main canes” on your rose. Train them horizontally to maximize flowering – not straight up.
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Tie in canes at shallow angles to continue to encourage lateral shoots and prevent leggy growth.
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Lightly prune out dead or damaged wood. Avoid heavy cuts on young roses.
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Lightly deadhead spent flowers on lateral canes only to redirect energy towards producing new blooms.
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Water consistently & mulch for proper hydration and overall health.
Year 2: Fill the Space
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Increase coverage by extending main canes outward – re-tying horizontally as they lengthen.
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Tip back or shorten vertical shoots to encourage laterals and avoid a top-heavy rose bush.
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Prune in winter/early spring. Keep 3-5 strongest main canes and remove weak or crossing ones.
Year 3 and Beyond: Maintain & Renew
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Once your rose wakes up from its winter slumber, focus on retaining framework and encouraging new spring flowers. Shorten side shoots to 2-5 buds to reset bloom spurs.
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Keep your established rose rejuvenated by gradually pruning out old main canes (at least 3-5 years old) and training younger ones.
How to Train on Specific Structures
No matter the structure your rose will be climbing on, the core training principles remain: run canes horizontally, tie gently, and leave room for airflow. But with each structure type, there are a few tweaks to be aware of before settling on the right one for your garden.
Trellis
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Tie main canes outward and then across trellis rungs – weaving back and forth.
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Tie loosely at a 45-degree angle or less. Aim for horizontal to encourage lateral growth and blooms from top to bottom.
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Use soft materials like rope, twine, or Velcro.
Fence
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Attach horizontal wires along the fence spaced 12-18 inches apart – placing lowest wire 2 feet from the ground and up to the rose’s mature height.
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Use eye screws every 5 feet to secure the wire.
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Run canes horizontally along the fence line and let lateral shoots bloom downward.
Wall (stucco/brick/siding)
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Install stand-off vine eyes and attach straining wires – maintaining an air gap of 2-4 inches.
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For brick walls, use masonry anchors to create a secure fixing point and screw in vine eyes. This will also prevent ties from cutting into the mortar.
Pergola / Arbor / Arch
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Spiral one or two long canes around uprights.
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Tie in at 8-inch intervals.
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Cross-tie along the top beam to create a shaded space with overhead blooms.
Post / Pillar
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Wrap 1 or 2 canes in a slow “barber-pole style” spiral – tying in every 8 inches.
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Shorten side laterals annually to maintain a tidy column.
Training a New Plant vs. Retrofitting an Older Plant
Childhood builds our foundation; adolescence defines our identity. The same goes for roses. Focus on training in year one, then experiment with form and structure.
New climbing roses
Roses naturally want to bloom from their central stem tip rather than their lateral buds (apical dominance). They must be horizontally trained as early as possible to overcome this phenomenon and produce flowers not just at the top, but from head to toe.
Roses need minimal pruning within their first year – removing only dead or damaged growth.
Established climbing roses
Once your rose turns 1, select 3-5 of the strongest “main canes.” Spread them out in a fan shape and gently tie to your support. This will prevent a tangled mess at the top.
More established roses are ready for a structural pruning. Remove one or two of the oldest canes each winter to open up the plant and direct energy towards new vigorous shoots.
Special Cases: Rambler & Shrub Roses
True climbers aren’t the only roses that can be trained to grow upward. Rambler roses and many shrub roses can also be planted to beautify any ordinary garden structure. Keep these special considerations in mind before training a non-climbing rose:
Rambler roses
With canes even more flexible than their climber counterparts, rambler roses require less training than climbers. They can be draped loosely over vast spaces and large structures – such as long fences, pergolas, or trees.
Shrub roses
Many shrub roses can be trained to climb walls, arches, obelisks, or pillars – they just won’t grow as tall as true climbers or ramblers. Since they only reach about 13 feet in height, it’s best to choose a large, vigorous shrub rose variety.
Pruning & Seasonal Timing
Late winter or early spring is the best time to do a main structural pruning on your climbing rose. Removing dead, diseased, or damaged wood during dormancy will allow it to wake up refreshed for the spring season – ready to produce fresh, healthy blooms. Avoid hard cuts right before a major flush on repeat bloomers.
After you’ve made the necessary cuts, tie in the canes while they’re still flexible. Just make sure the weather is safe to do so. Deadhead spent flowers throughout the season to keep those fresh repeat blooms coming.
Feeding, Watering, and Mulch to Support Training
All climbing roses need food, water, and protection to achieve their maximum height and produce full blooms. Here are our top tips for a basic yet essential care routine:
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Water: Roses need deep, infrequent watering to stay hydrated. Water in the early mornings at the base of the plant to avoid excess moisture buildup and prevent root rot. Regularly do a “finger check” to determine if your soil needs more or less water.
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Feed: Follow a balanced fertilization program during active growth to provide your rose with key nutrients (NPK). Stop feeding 6-8 weeks before your first frost date to avoid pushing soft growth that could be vulnerable to winter damage.
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Mulch: Add a 1 to 3-inch layer of mulch or compost for temperature regulation, water retention, and weed suppression. Always leave a small gap around the canes to ensure proper air circulation and prevent disease.
Common Issues During Training
It’s likely you’ll run into a few minor setbacks during your rose training journey. Here are the most common issues when training a rose to climb – and what you can do to solve them:
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“It only flowers at the top”: Your rose’s main canes may be too vertical. Re-tie them as horizontally as possible and shorten a few laterals to reset bloom spurs.
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Sparse, one-sided growth: Rejuvenate the plant by pruning out an old cane – encouraging a new, more vigorous one to grow. Ensure sunlight is reaching the lower canopy.
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Canes snapping/abrasion: Your ties may be too tight. Use soft, stretchy materials and spread out the tie-in points to prevent friction. Abrasion can also occur from wind damage or attempting to train canes after they’ve stiffened.
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Slow establishment: Roses don’t climb overnight. Slow growth in the first 2 years is perfectly normal. Ensure your rose is getting adequate sun, water, mulch, and gentle lateral placement – and it’ll sprawl upward with gorgeous blooms by year 3.
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Messy, tangled canes: Don’t fall for the common misconception that roses cling to their support and climb without any human guidance. Without the proper training, you’ll be dealing with a jumbled mess of weak canes. Begin horizontal training while the canes are still young and flexible. If the canes have already stiffened, a renovation pruning during dormancy will encourage new growth and a fresh start.
The Climb Starts Here
With a sturdy support, proper training, and routine care, your climbing rose will soar upward and adorn your garden fixture in full, vibrant blooms. Visit April & Ashley to browse our selection of premium climbing rose bushes, shipped straight from our field to your home.